Quality repair of the cooling system is one of the key procedures in the maintenance of internal combustion engines, carried out to extend their service life. As a rule, the very work of pouring antifreeze requires very little time, effort and technical knowledge.
General information on motorcycle antifreezes
Most Motorsport organizations and racing leagues prohibit the use of traditional ethylene glycol coolers. When leaks on the track, they can be extremely dangerous, and their traces are very difficult to clean off.
Moreover, typical coolers are created with a strong emphasis on components that prolong the life of the cooling system, and keep the engine temperature below the permissible limit.
In addition, specialized coolants have a composition that allows them not to freeze at low temperatures, while conventional liquids, expanding upon freezing, can damage:
- impeller housing or other parts.
Although this is less true of motorcycle racing, which is rarely carried out at low temperatures. In General, reducing the operating temperature of the engine extends the life of the unit, while allowing for maximum performance.
The right choice of antifreeze is as important as a good equipment for motorcyclists, which is consistently given increased attention. Let’s figure out how to change the old cooler to fresh on their own.
step-by-Step instructions for replacing antifreeze in a motorcycle
First we need to find the drain bolt. Each motorcycle has its own characteristics, but still in most cases it is located at the bottom of the blade pump cover, which is easily identified by two hoses of the cooling system connected to it. The drain bolt can also be identified by the copper washer.
Now we need to find and remove the radiator cap. Although on some fashionable bikes, to get to the radiator, you need to remove the saddle or air ducts, it is almost impossible not to notice it.
To prevent the heated cooler from spilling out of the radiator neck, make sure the engine is completely cool before opening the cover.
To drain the liquid, place a container of at least 4 liters under the drain bolt. Remove the radiator cap and Unscrew the drain bolt until a steady stream of coolant flows out of the engine.
The radiator cap must be removed so that the system pressure is leveled and the fluid drains faster. When the jet runs out, you can tighten the bolt by hand.
Flushing the cooling system
Fill the neck of the radiator with distilled water – about 2 liters. Then Unscrew the drain bolt, allowing water to leak out. This helps to remove sediment and coolant residues. Drain the liquid from the system, properly tighten the drain bolt.
It is also important to drain the old cooler from the expansion tank, which is usually located next to the radiator. When the system temperature rises and the pressure increases, excess coolant is discharged into the tank through the built-in spring-loaded valve. When the temperature and pressure drop, the vacuum created in this case returns the cooler back to the system.
If there is still an old cooler in the tank, it will mix with the new one when the engine is running. Drain the antifreeze from the tank into a special container through the drain hose. Then reattach the hose.
Fill new cooler
The cooling system is filled with fresh traditional antifreeze or, if the motorcycle will race, a mixture of distilled water and a «racing» cooling additive.
Additives without ethylene glycol, as a rule, do not require complex solutions, since the cooling system is filled mainly with distilled water. The use of water mixture in the cooling system reduces the operating temperatures of the engine, and the parts are properly protected and lubricated with a small dose of cooling additive.
note. If you intend to use or store the motorcycle at sub-zero temperatures, you need to use antifreeze coolers. Also, do not forget to fill the expansion tank with the selected type of cooler.
After filling the system with a new cooler, close the radiator and expansion tank covers. Then put the other parts of the motorcycle in its place.
Check engine for leaks
Start the motor and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature. Inspect the areas of the cooling system through which the cooler was poured and poured, that is, the drain bolt and the radiator cap. Make sure there are no leaks.
If during the replacement of a little cooler spilled on the surface, you can see a light steam coming from the engine. Not to worry – the remnants of the liquid will evaporate from the hot engine.
If the cooler gets on the tires, wash them, as the antifreeze radically reduces the grip, which creates dangerous conditions for driving.
Re-loading of the system (optional)
For further purification of the system from the remnants of the old chiller after warming up the bike to normal temp a good idea to repeat the above steps. This is especially important if the ethylene glycol cooler was drained before leaving the track.
The fact is that when the antifreeze is drained from the system on a cold engine (as it should be), it gets stuck in the conductive channels and shells around the cylinders. These residues cannot be removed through the drain bolt, as the cold thermostat closes a valve that would allow the coolant to flow into the main part of the system in working order.
When the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperatures, the temperature control valve opens and mixes the new cooler with the old one. And although it is almost impossible to completely remove the old cooler, yet the second fill of the system will reduce the volume of the remaining liquid.